Strange Creatures

I have made my way back from the Pacific Coast into the center of Costa Rica. The climate up here is a lot nicer, and I like the view of the mountains and the light breeze. Yesterday I wore real shoes for the first time in weeks - before that it was just flip flops. Today I am wearing jeans again, which I had stashed away 5 weeks ago. After 5 weeks - change is good.

Right now I am sitting in the Intenet section of a B&B close to the airport, where I had to convince the owner to let me hook up my own laptop instead of using the archaic PI machines they use to provide internet access (often the problem here isn't as much in the connection speed, but rather lies in the fact that the computers can't handle running IE and Messenger at the same time).

A lot of things have happened since I last updated the blog. The time to go to Monteverde came and passed.... like so often you meet people and decide to alter your travel plans. I may have to come back to CR so that I can see the rain forest as well.

Also two of the more memorable moments I'll take away from Costa Ricahaveoccurredd over the last weeks as well:

Last week on Friday night we went to watch the giant turtles (leatherback turtles), which lay their eggs at the Playa Grande, just north of Tamarindo. There used to be dozens of turtles arriving every night during the right season, but apparently their number has become less and less so that today a tourist can consider himself happy if a turtle arrives during the night.

They don't let the tourists loose on the turtles without any preparation, so once you get there you either chose to follow a short presentation in Spanish that is supported by 15 year-old overhead projector slides, or you watch a fancy movie for the English speaking tourists. Of course we chose Spanish - and barely understood a word.

After that the fun starts. Waiting. And waiting a bit more. Since the park rangers have no idea when a turtle will show up, they have a few spotters on the beach that radio in when one shows up. But that can be at any time during the night. To cut the long story short, we were sitting there from about 9pm until 2am in the morning until a turtle decided to show up and lay some eggs. In a few buses we rushed to the right beach access and then marched in double file (like kindergarten) to the turtle. Apparently these (5-feet-long) beast are very sensitive to their surroundings - so you aren't allowed to take any pictures - with flash or without - but they don't really seem to mind 30 people standing behind them, looking up their butt, watching them dig a hole.

I have to admit - it was a fascinating event. I was probably most surprised by the precision with which the turtle could dig a deep hole in the sand. I'd want to hire one of them for my next sandcastle project. Once the hole is big enough the turtle pops about 30-40 eggs in there and closes the hole again. The hole thing doesn't take more than an hour. While I appreciate the effort the volunteers are doing in helping preserve the turtles, we couldn't help but mocking those that tried to help the turtle dig the hole. The turtle's been doing that for 1000s of years. I thought she'd do just fine without a guy with a flashlight behind them, moving away the loose sand.



The second spectacular encounter happened while diving offshore at the Catalinas. Diving here is definitely different than at the Great Barrier Reef. It turns out the whole thing out there is a little bit more dangerous, because there is a strong surge that pulls and pushes divers around quite a bit. I got caught in one of those surges once and pulled right from 40ft all the way up to the surface in front of the rocks. Not funny, but an adventure nonetheless. Also the visibility is significantly less - around 15ft is all there is to be had at most times.


What makes the diving here an exciting experience nevertheless is the chance of seeing big marine life quite often - and that's what happened to us on our second dive. A giant Manta Ray made his rounds directly above us. Looking up towards the surface, he was nothing but a giantsilhouettee the first time, slowly and majestic gliding through the water. When he passed the second time I had ascended a bit, so I was at about the same depth as he was - and it was simply amazing. He must have had a wingspan of at least 8ft, with the tip of his "wing" passing me by at arms reach. Had I extended my arms I could have touched him. But he was a bit too big, I didn't think it would have been a good idea...

4am tomorrow I'll make my way to the airport. The era of studying Spanish is over, now I have to start using it a lot more. I am amazed though, how much easier a lot of the conversations and readings have been since. A few months here and I should be in business of speaking Spanish....

Other things...

As good americans we have celebrated the superbowl where of course Seattle kicked some butt!

Tamarindo is entirely too touristy.

I need a bigger beach towel.

Costa Ricans don't believe in addresses. Instead they believe in directions from - sometimes obsolete - landmarks...

No one of consequence...

Costa Rica isn’t for the faint at heart. Of course – if you are planning to stay in one of the finer resorts and hotels that constantly spray their rooms and gardens with pesticides and insecticides there probably isn’t much to be worried about other than the occasional sea snake washed up at the beach – but for those of you that prefer a heartier accommodation, you’d better be willing to share your place with some new friends.

Supposedly C.R. has the largest number of animals per square mile and the widest selection of creatures in the world – I can’t speak much for the rain forest section here, but I imagine it being even better than the dry forest/pacific area I’ve encountered here…

I think pretty much all creatures can be divided up into the – rather personal - categories of “cute”, “don’t care much” and “someone get this out of here NOW” – and depending on what the population of your category three is, you’ll have a better or worse time down here.

Iguanas are a “normal” part of live in Playa Flamingo. They eat left-over melon in the school yard, climb around trees, or hang out lazily with their buddies watching the trash fires that can be found everywhere. The Ticos seem to have a “live and let live” attitude towards them – they hang out in the front and back yards, at pools and fountains, aren’t eaten, hunted, or disturbed – and in turn the Iguanas…. do what it is that Iguanas do. Other than them running across your roof (they are pretty fast for having such short legs) in the middle of the night, I haven’t heard of anyone who had to share their bunk bed with one.

Another creature – that luckily rarely finds it way into the rooms – is the grasshopper. No, not what you think. Not the semi-cute little hoppers that make that nice sound during those summer nights that we all so fondly remember. We are talking about grasshoppers that easily reach 10 inches (25 cm) – the NFL linebackers of grasshoppers. It takes quite some effort and conviction to get one of those out of your room again.

Inside appears to be more reserved for the smaller creatures that can – and will – slip through the numerous cracks and holes of Tico architecture, attracted by light or in the hope of some food. Without doubt Mosquitoes are the most common visitors – and the prospect of getting Malaria or Dengue Fever from a bite makes the use of repellant a wise idea.

I am reasonably sure that the countless ants get into the rooms the same way –all the different sizes seem to live in harmony with each other, and are only united in their fight against humans. Some of them even go way out of their way only to bite you. Maybe it’s a game or another ant triple-dog-dared them, but I haven’t seen one come out alive from that yet.

The architecture usually also provides large entryways for other creatures – for example lizards (or geckos?). Someone said they eat the ants and mosquitoes, so they are OK in my book. These little fellows (up to the size of your hand) are also terribly quick, but other than the iguanas have little suction cups at their feet, which allows them to walk equally quick on level surface as they do on walls and even ceilings. What’s particular impressive is their ability to run upside down on a wall and then jump, turn around mid air, land on their feet, and continue running on the floor. The one in Ken’s room also acts as wake up call – exactly 5 minutes before his alarm clock goes off, his lizard shows up and “barks” at the alarm clock. Every day.

Scorpions can be found less often in the rooms, but one is always best advised to shake out pieces of clothing and shoes before putting them on. Our student advisor found a scorpion in his sneakers before going on a run last week.

I am not even going to talk a lot about the cockroaches and other bugs that seem to live their lives hidden in corners and below surfaces, only to pop their heads up behind the pillow during the State of the Union or another riveting episode of “The Simpsons” in Spanish. They are more like roommates than anything else. If only they would do the dishes.

And last but by no means least, another common occurrence are Spiders – and they come in all sorts and shapes here. While my room is only frequented by a rather small spider – not more than 6-7cm (about 3 inches) - that seems to have taken a particular liking to my first aid kit, a fellow class mate of mine had to give up his room to a full-grown, hairy Tarantula a few nights ago.

From the classifieds:

The image gallery for Costa Rica is here. There aren't a whole lot of pictures from here on yet - mostly because I haven't seen the abundant wildlife yet that I'll hopefully encounter in Monteverde.

I went snorkeling at the Isla Tortuge last weekend - and the water clarity there is leagues better than up here. Tons of fish, eels, etc. in all colors. If it wasn't for the tiny jelly fish that would just casually sting me while diving, it would have been a perfect experience. Planning to go scuba diving this Wednesday, hope I don't kill myself.

"Las Naciones" in Buenos Aires will be my new home for 5 weeks starting in late February. If I can trust the description I got from it, it's right downtown on the Av. Corrientes. We'll see.

Marina is planning to disappoint me sorely.

They seem to know Cindy here as well: