You can’t get a sauce as thick as…

For a week I have now been in Buenos Aires, the capital of Argentina. Like no other city in South America this city has a very European feel to it. If it wasn’t for the Spanish speaking, you could easily imagine yourself in Paris or Berlin.

The Spanish, of course, is also the greatest obstacle in communicating with people. Even after several weeks of language training in Costa Rica, the Spanish over here is almost incomprehensible: It’s not only that every “ll” is pronounced like a “sh”, they also speak so fast here, that by the time I have deciphered the verb form in the first sentence, they have completed an entire story. It’s tough; I may take some more language classes here.

And I believe I have time for that, because for the last week the weather down here has been rather poor, heavy rain and thick clouds, but since I have been here before 3 years ago, I don’t feel like I miss out too much on the sightseeing at this point. Also, Nate will be here in 4 weeks, and I am sure he’ll want to tour the city as well. Places – among countless others - that we are bound to visit are of course

The Recoleta cemetery with Evita’s tomb

La Boca, the birthplace of Tango and home to one of the most famous soccer teams in the country.

Palermo Viejo, the hip and trendy area with all the nightlife

Plaza San Martin with the memorial to the Falkland War. Even today every map in Argentina still claims the Falkland Islands (“Las Malvinas”) as Argentinian territory

Plaza de Mayo with the Casa Rosada, the Mayor’s residence where most of Argentinean’s demonstrations have take place, including Evita Peron’s rallies of the people, and “Las Madres de Plaza de Mayo”

The Obelisk on the Avenida 9 de Julio, a grand landmark which stands for nothing but its own grandeur, but is a symbol of BsAs today

Debbie and Pauline, the two Scottish girls that I had met in Costa Rica, left yesterday morning, which leaves me largely without contacts in the city – I have yet to actually catch Georgina or hear back from a contact that my good friend Michael set me up with. That isn’t to say that I don’t meet any people – the Argentineans are very open and friendly, and more than once have I had a good conversation (often in broken English and broken Spanish) which ends in people sharing contact information in case I have any troubles or questions.

Michael, whom I met with Evelyn in Thailand last year, appears to be in Buenos Aires as well. However, we seem to both be hung over most of the time, so it may take some time until we actually meet up.

My accommodation, which I have obtained with the help of a friend of Hernan’s sister, is nicely located in the Microcentro on the Avenida Corrientes. It’s only two blocks from the Obelisk, only 3 blocks from the Calle Florida, a huge shopping street, and not much further from Puerto Madero (an area with plenty of restaurants and bars). Avenida Corrientes itself is comparable with Broadway in New York – it is home to all the big theaters showing old and new plays and musicals, with lots of smaller theaters (considered off-Corrientes) in the area. Just down the block is “El Hombre de la Mancha” playing, and with a bit of luck I should be able to get a ticket.

Restaurants in this part of town are on every corner, and most of them are quite good. What the Argentinean cuisine is best known for, is of course the fabulous meat as well as the wines from Mendoza – and rightfully so. I have emptied many a bottle of Malbec already, and plenty shall follow over the next weeks. Another dish on the local menus that cannot be left unmentioned is of course Empanadas. These dough pockets filled with meat, chicken, cheese or onions are a favored snack or alternative to a full lunch. Similar to donut stores in the US, there are entire fast food chains here that are specialized only on Empanadas (“Solo Empanadas”). Of course in a city like this, there is also virtually every other type of food available, yet I am still looking for a good Chicken Tikka Masala - all my attempts so far have only yielded Tikka chicken without sauce...

Argentineans eat late – 10pm is a common time to head to the restaurant for dinner, on Friday or Saturday nights it can easily be as late as 11 or 12pm, and the following visit to the bar or nightclub often takes until 6 or 7am. I have witnessed rush hours on a Saturday morning at 6am when everybody headed home from the clubs.

It’s 9:30pm. Time for dinner.